STEP 5 Lay the rear wheel down with the sprocket facing up on a flat working sur- face. Make sure that the appro- priate Allen (or Torx) wrench fits tightly in the bolt hous- ing before loosening the bolts. Use an open-end wrench on the backing nuts. Remove the rear sprocket. STEP 8 In a star pat- tern, tighten the nuts and bolts. The star pattern creates equal surface tension around the circumference of the sprocket. Unequal tension can cause the bolts to come loose. Use a torque wrench to tighten the rear sprocket bolts to the required setting found in your owner’s manual.
STEP 9 If the countershaft sprocket is held in by a circlip, extract it with circlip pliers. Slowly pull the countershaft sprocket off the output shaft splines. Clean the splines with a rag. Always remember that the lip edge of the countershaft sprocket faces inward toward the engine. The flat side of the counter- shaft sprocket should face outward. Place the new countershaft sprocket on the output shaft splines.
STEP 4 Remove the rear axle nut. Carefully pull the rear axle out. Do not use a hammer or hard object when tapping the rear axle out, as it could potentially destroy the threads on the axle. With the axle, axle blocks and washer out, remove the rear wheel. STEP 7 As you place the rear sprocket bolts in their housings, make sure that the washers install between the nut and the hub. The flat side of the washer should always face toward the hub, while the rounded side goes toward the nut. Finger tighten the nuts.
STEP 6 Use fine-grit sandpaper to lightly clean the hub edges where the old sprocket was seated to ensure a flat mating surface for the new sprocket. Place the new sprocket on the hub. Spin the sprocket a few times to make sure that there are no burrs or sharp edges that will snag the sprocket during tightening. Apply a dab of red Loctite to each sprocket bolt, regardless of whether the sprocket nuts are self-locking.